OCS 1005 Lecture Notes - Lecture 8: Restoring Force, Wind Wave, Capillary Wave

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Wavelength- the orbital path of water particles is essentially negligible. Orbit is slightly open and a particle of water moves in the orbital path, moves a little bit forward. Waves are primarily transporting energy, and small net movement occurs: a disturbing force is an energy force that causes waves. A restoring force is an energy source that returns the water surface to flatness after a wave has passed: wave types. Capillary wave (smallest): disturbing force-wind, restoring force-cohesion of water molecules, wavelength-up to 1. 72cm. Selche (water rocking back and forth in basin): disturbing force-change in atmospheric pressure, storm surge, tsunami, restoring force-gravity, wavelength-large but variable depends of basin size. Seismic sea wave (tsunami): disturbing force- faulting of seafloor, volcanic eruption, landslide, restoring force- gravity, wavelength- 200 km. Tide: disturbing force-gravitation attraction, rotation of earth, restoring force-gravity, Wavelength- half earths circumference: x-axis: period, smaller waves left side and larger on the right, most energy and most common waves- wind waves, also tides,

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