ENVS 3000 Lecture Notes - Lecture 10: Surf Zone, Wave Height, Frequency
Document Summary
Dynamic coastal environment convergent zone of continental and oceanic processes. Most serious coastal processes (4): rip currents generated in the surf zone, coastal erosion, tsunami, or seismic sea waves, tropical cyclones, called hurricanes in the atlantic and typhoons in the pacific coastal erosion loss of beach environment fetch. The distance that the wind blows across the surface. Wave height difference in height between the wave"s trough and its peak. Wave period (p) time in seconds for successive waves to pass a reference point wave translation. Decrease in wavelength and velocity, but increase in wave height; (deep water wave energy translating into wave breakers,pounding the shore) Long term: coastal erosion and beach modification wave refraction. The bending of waves (convergence) toward the protruding areas (headlands) and the divergence of waves at the beach or embayment. Long-term effect: straightening the irregular shoreline and erosion of headlines.
