GEOLOGY 103 Lecture Notes - Lecture 10: Pycnocline, Wave Base, In The Deep
29 Mar 2017
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Document Summary
The motion of the ocean and the transfer of energy. Waves come in all shapes and sizes: transverse waves. Particles moving up and down looks like a crowd doing the wave . Move in the same direction as the motion of the wave. Particle motion is in a circular/orbital path and gets smaller as it goes down. Velocity of particles in orbital waves decreases with depth. Wave base: max depth at which a water wave causes significant water motion. Deep water waves: waves occurring in water depths greater than the wave base d > l/2. Deep water waves for water depth of 50 m or more. Anatomy of a wave: crest and trough. What is a wave: surface waves represent the transmission of energy, not mass, along the interface between fluids of differing density. No mass transport wind waves are not influenced by the coriolis effect/spin of the earth: between the surface of the ocean and the atmosphere.
