TMD 232 Lecture Notes - Lecture 5: Hattie Carnegie, Gibson Girl, Designer Label
2 Sep 2016
School
Course
Professor
TMD 240
Dr.Welters
American Designers
Early Years
• American looked to Europe
• To Paris for couture shows
• The “line-for-line” copy
Timeline : Establishing an American Style
• 1890-1910 : Gibson Girl, practical clothes
• WWI : Paris inaccessible, NY attempts to develop an American style
• 1920 - all eyes on Paris
• 1930 - Depression, US Government duties on imported goods
• 1930s- promote American designers
• 1940s- Paris occupied by Germans
1910’s
• M.D.C. Crawford
• Editor at Womens Wear
• Promoted American design during WWI
• Partnered with museums (Brooklyn Museum)
Jessie Franklin Turner
• Dressmaker
• Known for tea gowns, 1910-1920s
• Worked independently of French influence
• Inspired by ethnic dress in American museum collections
• embroidered birds
• inspired by an indian blouse
Jessie Franklin Turner
• 1918-22
• 1932
Hattie Carnegie
• born 1886 in Austria - Henrietta Kanengeiser
• Changed name
• Partner in milinery shop 1909
• Bought out partnered 1917
• Built a successful design business
• The first American designer label
• Traveled to Paris 4 times a year
• Vionnet copies
find more resources at oneclass.com
find more resources at oneclass.com
Document Summary
1930 - depression, us government duties on imported goods. Timeline : establishing an american style: wwi : paris inaccessible, ny attempts to develop an american style. 1910"s: m. d. c. crawford, editor at womens wear, promoted american design during wwi, partnered with museums (brooklyn museum) Jessie franklin turner: dressmaker, known for tea gowns, 1910-1920s, worked independently of french influence. Hattie carnegie: changed name, partner in milinery shop 1909, bought out partnered 1917, built a successful design business, vionnet copies. Inspired by ethnic dress in american museum collections embroidered birds inspired by an indian blouse. 1932 born 1886 in austria - henrietta kanengeiser. Traveled to paris 4 times a year: claire mccardell, norman norell, pauline trigere. 1929 - turk, inc. fitting model and design assistant. Innovative swimwear and casual wear an original thinker not influenced by paris dies 1956 known for tailored suits youthful, sophisticated looks launched other american designers.
