TMD 232 Lecture Notes - Lecture 3: Gibson Girl, Haute Couture, Gingham
Wednesday, October 21, 2015
American Designers
Early Years
-American looked to Europe
-To Paris for couture shows
-The “line-for-line” copy
Timeline : Establishing an American Style
-1890-1910 : Gibson Girl, practical clothes
-WWI : Paris inaccessible, NY attempts to develop an American style
-1920 - all eyes on Paris
-1930 - Depression, US Government duties on imported goods
-1930s- promote American designers
-1940s- Paris occupied by Germans
1910’s
-M.D.C. Crawford
-Editor at Womens Wear
-Promoted American design during WWI
-Partnered with museums (Brooklyn Museum)
Jessie Franklin Turner
-Dressmaker
-Known for tea gowns, 1910-1920s
-Worked independently of French influence
-Inspired by ethnic dress in American museum collections
-embroidered birds
!1
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Wednesday, October 21, 2015
-inspired by an indian blouse
Jessie Franklin Turner
-1918-22
-1932
Hattie Carnegie
-born 1886 in Austria - Henrietta Kanengeiser
-Changed name
-Partner in milinery shop 1909
-Bought out partnered 1917
-Built a successful design business
-The first American designer label
-Traveled to Paris 4 times a year
-Vionnet copies
-dies 1956
-known for tailored suits
-youthful, sophisticated looks
-launched other american designers
•Claire McCardell
•Norman Norell
•Pauline Trigere
Claire McCardell
-Hood College and Parsons school of design
-1929 - Turk, Inc. fitting model and design assistant
-Townley Frocks
!2
find more resources at oneclass.com
find more resources at oneclass.com