TMD 303 Lecture Notes - Lecture 11: Poplin, Broadcloth, Twill
28 Nov 2016
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10/28: on a simple (cam = raise harnesses) loom. (cid:862)bala(cid:374)(cid:272)ed(cid:863) similar # of yarns per inch: warp/fill. (cid:862)u(cid:374)(cid:271)ala(cid:374)(cid:272)ed(cid:863) fine warps, fat fills ribs: poplin, broadcloth, bengaline. Pair up yarns: separate yarns that travel as a pair, paired (cid:449)arps = (cid:862)o(cid:454)ford(cid:863, paired warp and fill = basket weave. E(cid:454)tra hea(cid:448)(cid:455) (cid:455)ar(cid:374)s at i(cid:374)ter(cid:448)als = (cid:862)ripstop(cid:863) Up-down sequence (any except one up/one down) that shifts on successive places. If the # up > # do(cid:449)(cid:374) = (cid:862)(cid:449)arp-fa(cid:272)ed(cid:863) t(cid:449)ill: different look on each side, denim ** If the # up = #down = even-faced twill: plaids, flannels, twill shirting. Bottom right top left diagonal = left hand twill. Bottom left top right diagonal = right hand twill. Steep = closer to warp direction. Reclining = closer to fill direction. Re(cid:448)erse t(cid:449)ill li(cid:374)e = herri(cid:374)g(cid:271)o(cid:374)e (cid:894)(cid:272)he(cid:448)ro(cid:374)(cid:895) (cid:862)(cid:271)roke(cid:374) t(cid:449)ill(cid:863) Color sequence houndstooth/ glen check plaid. Warp direction, filament yarns = satin.
