HIS 315K Lecture : The Waves
Document Summary
Outcomes: wave formation process, basic wave characteristics, wavelength, wave period, wave-induced water motion, processes controlling max potential wave height, wave refraction, diffraction, and reflection, tsunami, standing waves. Wind and friction between air and water (no other disturbance) 8. 2 & 8. 3 wave anatomy and wave speed. Deep-water waves: depth > l/2 (c ~ l) Shallow-water waves: depth < l/20 (c ~ d) Variety of periods and heights are generated. Dispersion - wave groups separate as they propagate away from the storm. Group speed - speed of energy transport. Breaking of large amplitude waves produced by constructive interference. A crest meets a trough - waves cancel out. Significant water height - average height of highest 1/3 of waves. Occurs because of intersecting wave trains, changes in depth, and currents. Most frequently near the edge of continental shelf. Depth < l/20 and l depends on depth only; height increases. Shallow water wave particles move in elliptical orbits.
