EOSC 114 Study Guide - Final Guide: Restoring Force, Extended Periodic Table, Surface Tension
31 Jan 2013
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Eosc 114: tsunami learning goals: identify key properties of waves, use these properties to determine wave speed and behavior in either shallow or deep water. Deep water: when waves are at depth equal or deeper than l/2 do not feel the bottom, move in circles. -longer wavelength travel faster than shorter wavelengths b/c dispersive (depend on l) Shallow water: waves are at depth higher than. Ke in surf ke moves water up beach, transported into pe on beach (effectively. Near coast, side of wave closest to coast slows more than rest, causing refraction. Refraction also causes shore straightening by eroding headlands (land that sticks out) and filling in embayments (curved parts) with the eroded sediment. Seiche: resonating wave in (semi-)enclosed body of water . Wave interference constructive interference of 2 wave trains can cause rogue waves (often by cape of good hope, south africa); very unpredictable and dangerous.
