OCE 3014L Study Guide - Midterm Guide: Surf Zone, Seismic Wave, Rogue Wave
25 Jul 2018
School
Department
Course
Professor
Document Summary
Waves are visual proof of the transmission of energy across the ocean. Boundary between and within fluids with different densities. Water/water interface (internal waves) - movement of water of different densities. Larger than surface waves - up to 100 m. Particles in ocean waves move in orbital paths. Longitudinal - push/pull waves in direction of energy transmission sound. Combination of longitudinal and transverse around and around motion at interface of two fluids. Wave steepness = ratio of wave height to wave length h/l. Wave period (t) = time for one wavelength to pass fixed point. Wave frequency = # of wave crests passing fixed location per unit of time, inverse of period or 1/t. Diameter of orbital motion decreases with depth of water. Hardly any motion below wave base due to wave activity. Water depth is greater than wave base ( > 1/2l) Wave feels bottom, because water is shallower than wave base.
