OCS 1005 Final: Ch 8 Homework
15 Mar 2019
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Chapter 8: along an air-water interference, the movement of air across the ocean surface creates ocean waves. Along an air-air interference, the movement of different air masses creates atmospheric wave, which are often represented by ripplelike clouds in the sky. Along water-water interference, the movement of water of different densities creates internal waves. Most waves are generated by storms, which produce wave energy that is transmitted across the entire ocean basis: no, because it will be too steep to support itself. When the wave steepness reaches the 1:7 ratio it will break and turn into surf: the shoaling depths interfere with water particle movement at the base of the wave, so the wave speed decreases. The following waveform, which is still moving at its original speed, moves closer to the wave that is being slowed, causes a decrease in wavelength. The wave height combined with the decrease in wavelength causes an increase in wave steepness (h/l).
