EOSC 114 Chapter 5: Tsunami
23 Nov 2017
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Document Summary
When wind blows across water, energy is transferred from atmosphere to water: this creates waves & currents. Large scale, permanent winds produce surface currents: surface currents transport matter (water) & energy. Occasional winds or winds that blow over smaller areas produce waves: waves transport energy in the direction of wind. Distance between 2 successive crests or troughs (m) Time for wavelength to pass a point (min or s) Number of waves passing point per unit of time (min or s) Energy transported by waves is related to wave height: applies only to deepwater waves, for most waves in open ocean, high waves transport more energy. Largest wind-driven waves develop in southern ocean around antarctica. Waves can also be classified based on their restoring force: capillary waves are almost always there bc water has very high surface tension. Sea state is the assessment of the ocean"s conditions.
