EPS SCI 15 Chapter Notes - Chapter 8-9: Tidal Power, Surf Zone, Wave Power
1 Nov 2016
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Document Summary
All ocean waves begin as disturbances caused by releases of energy (due to wind, gravity, different densities, mass movement in oceans, undersea sea. Once initiated, waves transmit energy through matter by setting up pat- terns of oscillatory motion (longitudinal, transverse, or orbital, depending on the pattern of particle oscillation) Waves are described according to their wavelength (l), wave height (h), wave steepness (h/l), wave period (t), frequency (f), and wave speed (s). Types: deep-water wave, shallow-water wave, capillary waves Factors that in uence the size of wind-generated waves include wind speed, duration (time), and fetch (distance. Energy is transmitted from the sea area across the ocean by uniform, symmetri- cal waves called swell. Waves release their energy in the surf zone when their steep- ness exceeds a. Refraction concentrates wave energy on headlands, while low- energy break- ers are characteristic of bays.
