GEO 110 Lecture Notes - Lecture 10: Tidal Range, Tidal Bore, Shingles
31 Oct 2016
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Document Summary
The coastal features are shaped by the curvature of the coast line. About 40% of the world"s population lives within 100km from the coastline. Often generated as a result of friction of the base of wind and the surface of the ocean and as wind moves across the water bodies. This can result in high rise of waves and it can be 10-20m high. Crest: highest point reached by the wave. Trough: lowest point reached by the wave. Wave interval (height): interval between highest and lowest point. Anytime the wave systems pull water, there is a swell and then it falls back down into the trough. When there"s a wave of oscillation, there is a circular motion of wave which rises and falls. As the waves fall back to the surface, the water particles are vertically restricted causing flattened orbit which slows the entire wave.
