EOSC 114 Lecture : The Violent Ocean Notes.docx
Document Summary
Surface currents: the wind blows over ocean, drags on surface and transfers energy from atmosphere to water- permanent winds prod surface currents. Waves defined as mechanical expressions of energy. H : energy transported by waves related to wave height (h) Waves w/ great heights transport more energy, also have long wavelengths. Waves classified accord to force that gen waves, force that disturbs water cause waves to form. Winds blow over ocean constantly- range in str, amnt of time blowing over ocean, and area it blows over. Wind gen waves can range from tiny surface wrinkles, gentle rolling waves to waves that can break ships in two. Force that causes water to return to undisturbed state. Capillary waves: tiny waves w/ wavelength size of fingernail that are restored by surface tension. Imp in generation of wind-driven waves- when wind blows over calm sea, cap waves generated first. As more energy transferred only gravity can restore the waves that grow.
