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Lecture 8

Lecture 8 - Fashion and the "New Woman"

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FCS195 - Lecture 8 11-11-20 8:13 PM Fashion and the “New Woman” Last time we spoke of fashion  beginning of 19 thcentury (Joséphine) The next Napoléon in 1854 had a wife and she liked elaborate dresses. Fashion in the 19 thcentury went back to i.e. corsets and complicated dressing styles for women Herminie Cadolle Invents First Bra in 1889 Paul Poiret • Designs clothes and tries to eliminate the corset forever. • Tries to “free” the woman • Invents new kinds of dresses with a waistline that went under the breast and the rest of the body was very free (especially in the belly)  used the bra and forgets the corset • He prides himself in being a “liberator” for women. However, the dresses were very long and not very convenient if we needed to run. • Very inspired by Art Nouveau Coco Chanel • First major female designer  fashion was male dominated even though it was addressed to women • Invents knee-high skirts which was scandalous • Goal: To fashion clothes that would allow women to really take part of modern life  going to work, riding a bike etc… o Easy to wear o Not complicated o “For the active, modern woman” o Plain style • She used men’s styles very much  she was the first who invented women’s pants and suits o Comfort  this brings a sense of ease and confidence o Ties and suits for women  this was very scandalous at the time • Popularizes: o Tanning o Creates the “little black dress”  black becomes a sign of elegance o Creates the association between haute couture designers and perfumers Elsa Schiaparelli • Not influential in day-to-day wear • First to invent the “skort” (skirt with shorts underneath) • Invents the trompe-l’oeil sweaters (optical illusions on the sweater) • Up to this point, dresses were the sign of elegance, Chanel started to popularize trousers, Schiaparelli made the sweater a classy fashion apparel for women  she popularized the sweater as being something classy • She collaborates with Jean Cocteau and puts optical illusions and creates high class dresses o Her fashion becomes an art  shoe hats, arlequin coats, monkey hair shoes etc… • Shocking dresses were called so because they used the colour pink a lot Sonia Delaunay • Interested in geometrical abstract art  calls this “simultaneous fashion” o Her dresses have geometrical patterns and lots of coulour • She created matching outfits • Explored shapes and colours • The woman is integrated in the work of art o Clothing was used to create moving/l
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