GEOL105 Lecture Notes - Lecture 11: Jet Stream, Beach Nourishment, Riprap
31 Oct 2016
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Document Summary
Dynamic environments: high energy vs. mass. Shoreline responce: erosion, transport, and deposition, result: constant change. Currents: from both waves and tides, waves result from wind blowing on water"s surface. The higher the wave, the more energy it has: when water depth is less than 1/2 wavelength. Bottom of wave slows (its dragging on the sea oor) Wave will eventually break and topple over: breaking waves transfer energy onto the shore. If waves approach shore at angle other than 90 : will bend, or, refract. Refracted waves have some of their energy directed parallel to shore. Creates a current along the shore: longshore current. Moves sediment along the coast: longshore drift. Rip currents: where wave energy ows back out to sea, incorrectly called rip tides. Daily change in sea-level due to gravitational pull of sun and moon. Height and numbers of cycle per day vary around the globe. Larger the tidal range, stronger the tidal currents.
