Earth Sciences 1070A/B Study Guide - Final Guide: Sodium Chloride, Hematite, Syncline

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Wind-generated waves are the dominant modification process of shores. Stables waves gradually form an advance if wind exceeds 3km/hour. The vertical distance between the crest and the trough is wave height. Wave period: the time taken between the passage of two successive crests at a stationary point. The distance the wind has travelled over open water (fetch) When wave height increase to a pint where they begin to topple over, they form breakers known as whitecaps. Each water particle moves in a circular motion during the passage of a wave. Energy transferred from the wind to the water is also transmitted below the service. Wave base: the depth equal to have the wave length where the movement of water particles stops. Water is forced into cracks which causes the air to be highly compressed. As the wave retreats, the air expands again. Similar to frost wedging, this compression and decompression continues and can cause the dislodging of rock fragments.

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