FSN 302 Lecture Notes - Lecture 10: Chemise, Haute Couture, Consumerism

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Britain & france war on germany (wwii) England: women, war time essentials simple tailored jackets, knee length skirt, utility clothing under the restriction of the time, clothing second hand, no time for top stitching/surface decoration (no unnecessary details) Jobs during the final years of the war: men still had restrictions, double-breasted could not be sold with a waist coat. Wwii posters changed (compared to wwi), straight forward message. Lots of understructure: 1951 empire waist (evening wear innovation) *, basic silhouette of basic new look, skirt darts square look (1952) Jacket boxy, tunic length, rounded shoulders: 1953 tulip line ** Jacket - narrow across shoulder, flaring at the bottom: 1957 chemise *, spring collection. Looser garments: put french couture back in business, became the sack dress, dior died (1957) ysl look over (first an associate for cd), co-designers) Look: reopened her couture house (1954, designs looked too much of 1930s.

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