BIOL361 Lecture Notes - Lecture 7: Longshore Drift, Wave Power, Longwave
4 Mar 2017
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Refraction focuses wave energy on headlands and deflects it from bays. Waves that hit the beach at an angle produce longshore currents which can generate rip currents. Headlands will smash you into the rocks, bad spot for cliff diving. Emboyment is safe, ball won(cid:495)t be taken away by waves. Can occur if longshore current collides with a disruption in the shoreline. Rapid transport of water away from the beach. Spot where waves don(cid:495)t break on the beach, avoid that area. Unusually huge waves that come without warning. More common to come during a storm. Detectable, tsunamis watch and warnings by sensors put under water. Long wave lengths, lose very little energy which gives them destructive ability. They move at different heights, more than one wave. Occur where low density (warm) water lies over higher density (cool) water. Mix very little but the mixing that does happen are very important. Propagation of the wave occurs at the interface.
