Earth Sciences 1022A/B Lecture 19: Lecture 19 – Shorelines

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Shorelines: dynamic environments, ancient shoreline deposits occur as rock bodies that are important oil and gas reservoirs (so it"s important to understand. Erosional and depositional processes combine along coasts to create landscapes that undergo rapid change the processes that form them: wind-generated waves provide most of the energy that shapes and modifies shorelines. The energy in normal water waves (e. g. except tsunamis) is derived from the wind. Tops of waves (crests) are separated by wave troughs. Waves: wavelength horizontal distance b/n wave crests, wave height vertical distance b/n through and crest, wave period the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. In deep, open waters, water molecules move in a circular path during the passage of a wave. The circular motion rapidly diminishes with increasing water depth: at a depth equal to about half the wavelength, the movement of water particles becomes negligible, this depth is called wave base.

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