CAS BI 260 Lecture 5: Waves and Tides (01.31.20)
2 Mar 2020
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I development of wave theory waves and tides. 01. 31. 20 i proposed motion of water particles in a wave was circular. B gerstner ii mathematical circular motion of waves crest9 trough t. C wwii securing a beach head a began to predict underwater i walter munk dersverdurp ii lead to now high tech surf. D technology drives study of waves surf conditions forecasts. A when wind blows waves form i generating force a small winds large winds ii restoring force a capillary waves gravity waves. B vocabulary capillary waves cripples gravity waves surface tension gravity i west partelevated highest aboveequilibrium sea surface ii trough part depressed lowest below equilibrium sea surface iii wavelength distance between 2 crests lor troughs iv wave height vertical distance. V amplitude distance between cresttrough and equilibrium surface vi period time required for 2 successive crests1troughs to pass a point between crest da trough c waves are moving energy.
