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Chapter 1

Chapter 1 - Theories.docx

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Ryerson University
FSN 223

Chapter 1: The Fashion Impulse Key Terms: Accessories: items of apparel that enhance or complete an outfit, including head wear, shoes, handbags, jewelry, body piercings, hairstyles, neckwear, umbrellas and parasols, gloves, belts, cosmetics and perfume Adidas: German sportswear and accessories brand established in 1920 by Adolph and Rudolph Dassler. The name was a contraction of “Adi” and “Das”. The brand name was registered in 1948. Adidas has become one of the dominant global sportswear companies and is frequently adopted as the major licensed brand for major sporting events such as the Olympic Games Antifashion: an outfit or style that is outside the fashion system – perhaps one that is customary, traditional, or unchanging. The dress of groups such as Sloane Rangers, European Royalty, Hassidic Jews, and traditional Muslims can be described as antifashion Bell Bottoms: trousers with extremely wide cuffs, originally worn by sailors because they were suitable for rolling up the leg for deck work and for removing quickly over shoes. They were revived as a fashion item in the 1960 and 1970s and became associated with the hippy era and radicalism Black: a dominant and enduring fashion color. Its meaning has changed over time and its use often sends contradictory messages. Its connotations range from death, power and danger to sexual allure and the avant-garde. These multiple signifiers account for its continued attraction as shorthand for mystery and magic. The little black dress, the versatile mainstay of the fashionable woman’s wardrobe, is attributed to Coco Chanel. Burka: a loose black or light blue robe covering the entire female body, often covering the eyes, designed for modesty in public. Imposed by fundamentalist Muslim regimes such as the Taliban in Afghanistan and the Iranian government. Other forms are the chador, yashmak and hijab. Capitalism: a private production system based on private property, the use of waged labor, and profit created by entrepreneurialism that is inherently inequitable Color Wheel: a system using the color spectrum and classifying colors as primary, secondary, and tertiary hues that is used in fashion to determine compatible and contrasting color combinations Conspicuous Consumption: a phrase coined by Theodor Veblen in 1899 to describe the tendency to mark social status through the competitive display of possessions Disco: a 1970’s fashion style associated with popular dance. Disco dance dress included leotards, stretch jeans, and leggings often made from spandex (stretch fiber) in fluorescent colors and extravagantly decorated Elizabethan: The English Renaissance period during the reign of Elizabeth I (1558- 1603), which was characterized by extravagant fabrics, jewels, and the shaping of garments through padding and frames Eroticism: aesthetic focus on sexual desire through the manipulation of the spectacle of dress and display of the unclothed body; from the Greek word eros, the name of the god of love. Fashion associated with eroticism includes lingerie and fetish wear Ethnographic: scientific classification of ethnic and racial groups in terms of distinctive cultural practices and social mores. Ethnographic dress is generally regarded as customary or traditional Fabric: any material made from weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding of yarns and threads to create a textile that is a fabric or cloth from which garments are made Fashion Cycle: the regular reappearance and regeneration of distinctive periodic styles that serve as inspirations for new fashions and trends Fashion Illustrations: art work depicting fashions and the construction of garments that developed as a specialized art form before photography and digital methods. Its appearance coincides with the development of fashion magazines in the eighteenth centure Garment: a textile fashioned into clothing Globalization: the phenomenon of the 20 and 21 centuries that relates to social and economic relations and interdependence that span many counties and economies. The term specifically refers to the spread of the economic system of capitalism Goths: a subculture that emerged in the early 1980s and embraced distinctive forms of music, aesthetics and fashion shaped by an obsession with nihilism, alienation, darkness, death and mysticism. Goth fashion in a mixture of styles influenced by death rock, punk, androgynous, medieval, Renaissance and Victorian aesthetics, usually black in color and complemented by thick black makeup and hair over artificially pale skin Identity: a person’s projection of a sense of self and distinctiveness; an appearance of recognizable continuity and coherence that is visble in the attributes of character, personality, experience, social position and lifestyle Indigo: a blue-violet dye made from a deciduous shrub grown in many countries Jersey: knitted fabric deriving from the Channel Island of Jersey in the late nineteenth century that is soft and stretchable and manufactured using cotton, wool, silk or artificial threads. Coco Chanel famously used jersey (than an underwear fabric) to make outerwear cardigans, jacket shirts, and trousers that initially shocked public sensibilities but later became fashion classics Kilt: a traditional Scottish garment made from plaid cloth, partially pleated, wrapped around the lower torso and fastened at the side with buckled straps. Complemented by a sporran or pouch, a kilt is reputedly work without underpants. Kilts have also become an evergreen fashion inspirations Kimono: traditional Japanese T-shaped robe, with wide hanging sleeves and a stand-up collar, wrapped over the left side and tied with a wide belt, or obi, at the back Leisure Wear: casual dress for everyday libing that adopted unstructured
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