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Chapter

FSN 223 Chapter Notes -Fashion Capital, Black Model, Jessica Simpson

10 pages90 viewsWinter 2013

Department
Fashion
Course Code
FSN 223
Professor
benbarry

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Week 1 – The Fashion Impulse
The fashion impulse is the achievement of distinctiveness in dress through clothing and symbols that
balance the impulse to belong to a group and the individual desire to stand out and make themselves
known. Fashion impulses are constantly changing clothing codes and stylistic registers.
Dress
clothing, apparel, ornaments to the body
can also refer to everyday modes or functions of dress
sometimes dress can be used to denote a stable genre of clothing does not change quickly
Fashion
a prevailing style or custom of dress, etiquette, modish style of the time
styles of behaviour and social status
clothing habits that are subject to changes of style in a short period of time
belongs to the collective (group, society)
confined to a limited amount of time, although not necessarily short-lived
Style
A combination of silhouette, construction, fabric, that make the performance of an outfit
distinctive of an aesthetic form
3 Elements Related to the Fashion Impulse
1. Fashion is a system of communication
2. Fashion helps us define ourselves as individuals and group members
3. The essence of fashion is change
Sumptuary Laws (pg. 49-50)
Legislation that is designed to control the conspicuous consumption of clothes and apparel.
“Little Black Dress” (pg. 46)
Created by Coco Chanel
Black was a symbol for many things; mourning, godliness, professionalism
Chanel's dress was labelled as the “new chic antifashion”
Week 2 – Fashion Cycles, Symbols, and Flows
Theories of Fashion (pgs, 106 - 109)
Trickle-Down Theory
-Fashion trends start among the elite or fashion leaders and move down to the masses of fashion
followers
-Elites -> Mass Population
Trickle-Up Theory
-Fashion trends start among the masses (youth, sub-cultures), and move upward to the fashion
leaders and elites
-Mass Population -> Elites
Trickle-Across Theory
-Fashion moves horizontally from fashion leaders to masses at the same social level
Cultural Appropriation
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Taking intellectual property, traditional knowledge, cultural expressions, or artifacts from
someone else's culture without permission.
Source, significance (or sacredness), and similarity (three S's)
The Harm of Cultural Appropriation
1. Misrepresentation of culture
2. Dehumanizes and devalues
3. Removes context and meaning
The Five Stages of the Fashion Cycle
1. Introduction of a style
2. Increase in popularity
3. Peak in popularity
4. Decline in popularity
5. Rejection of a style
Week 3: Fashion and Representation
Speaker: Noreen Flannagen
Editor in Chief at Elle Canada
Went to nursing school, worked in journalism
Be curious, look for a lot of chances and encounters
Education is important
Western Beauty Ideal
Thin
Tall
Caucasian
Blonde
Big eyes
Fair skin
Size and Body Image
Thin size
Proportionate size, in terms of the 'standard' proportion
Barbie – real life, very disproportionate
Reasons Why Thin Models are Used
(to the industry), clothes look 'better'
easier, more cost effective to make smaller clothes
Charles Worth was the first to use models
Race, First Black Model on Vogue
Beverly Johnson, first black model on Vogue with no obscurities
Reasons Why Designers are not Hiring Black Models
“Black Face” makeup – offensive
Hair, skin colour, history
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Beauty Ideal of Men
Not much attention in the past (fashion was focused on women)
Male models, fitness magazines, ad campaigns
Must be, fit, lean, built, have a good body, etc
Men, not only women, are also objectified
Objectification
Reducing a person’s worth and role to their sexual function
Disregards a person’s character, personality, and intelligence
Dismemberment
Highlights one body part while ignoring all the other parts
Effect is that a person is not a whole human being but instead one sexualized part
Week 5: The Eurocentric Fashion System
Paris as the Original Fashion Capital and History
Paris established itself as the centre of the fashion system of modernity
A lot of designers originated and stationed their lines in Paris
First, Haute Couture, then pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear), then avant-garde
Charles Worth – The Father of Haute Couture (pg. 69 – Box 2.1)
-1858 - Charles Worth established his fashion house in Paris
-He combined knowledge pf historic costume with new fashion ideas, paid close attention to the fit
of garments, ensured high standard of tailoring and craftsmanship (looked to the past and present)
-Changed the role of the designer. It was radical that he was a ‘man’ who was creating fashion for
women.
Other Fashion Capitals and Non-Western Fashion Capitals
London, New York, Milan
Beijing, Bombay, Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong
New fashion capital: Shanghai
The Fashion City Typology
-Economic Capital (money and resources)
-Social Capitals (networks of influence/support)
-Cultural capital (regimes of taste)
7 Specific Fashion City elements (What makes a fashion capital?)
1. Training and research institutions
2. Skilled and specialized subcontractors
3. Promotional infrastructure
4. Design tradition
5. Fashion Consumption
6. Links between fashion and cultural industries
7. Links within the fashion industry
Week 6: Fashion and Identity I
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