GEO 110 Chapter Notes - Chapter 10: Storm Surge, Surf Zone, Oceanic Basin
25 Jul 2016
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40% of worlds population lives within 100km of the coast line. The costal features are shaped by the curvature of the coast line, mofology of the ocean basin, and wave passions. Circular motion of wave which rises and falls, and as the waves fall to the surface, the water particles are vertically restricted, causing atting orbits which slows the entire wave. If you have series of angulating waves it is known as wave of transition, which means individual water particles move forward only slightly in a vertical pattern of circles. As the wave approaches the shore line, the bottom of the wave encounters resistance of friction with continental shell, and this reduces the velocity of the wave motion and that is known as swash, When water washes back to the shore line, the retrieving wave still has some energy and it pulls sediments in the form of backwash. Long shore drift (also known as long shore current/ lethral current)
